We find ourselves returning to Nafplio time and again – whether for a spontaneous day trip or a relaxed weekend escape – especially as the weather begins to warm. A good time here is almost a given, but eating well makes all the difference. So where do we go to eat well in one of our favorite destinations?
Few destinations feel as effortlessly appealing as Nafplio. It is always a good idea for a day trip or a weekend away, especially now that spring is arriving and the town is settling back into its welcoming rhythm. Just a short drive from Athens, it lends itself perfectly to unhurried exploration: strolls through the old town’s narrow lanes, sea views at every turn, and a dining scene that rewards those in the know. From tucked-away tavernas to seafood and grill spots just beyond the center, and from delicatessens to ice cream and wine with a view, these are some of the town’s most worthwhile culinary stops.
Aiolos
Located on one of the picturesque alleyways near the seafront, it operates in close partnership with its “sister” wine bar just across the way: diners can enjoy wines from the bar at the taverna, while dishes from the kitchen can be ordered on the wine bar side. The wine list, curated by one of the owners, sommelier Christos Lagkaditis, is particularly impressive. The cellar features around 1,000 labels, 300 grape varieties, and a number of rare vintages, a remarkable selection that would stand out even in a major city. Around 70 to 80 of these are also served by the glass using the Coravin system.
The menu focuses on fresh fish, a few seafood dishes, and daily home-style specials prepared in-house. Mrs. Eleni oversees the casseroles and traditional dishes, while chef Manolis Aivaliotis handles the grilled meats and fish. Portions are generous and the food is very good, even if the presentation could sometimes be a little more refined. Standout dishes include slow cooked lamb in parchment paper and meatballs in red sauce. The raw artichoke – served thinly sliced with coarse salt, lemon and olive oil – is excellent, as are the vrovia, small wild bulbs foraged from the surrounding countryside. You’ll also find year-round staples such as salt cod with skordalia, house-marinated anchovies, and a rich, gently spicy tyrokafteri.
The vegetables come directly from farmers in Iria, while the tomatoes used in their sauces are hydroponically grown. Fish is sourced from local fishermen. There is also a small but thoughtful selection of Greek cheeses, including graviera from Tracheia and smoked cheese from Vermio, if you want to stop in just for wine. The setting works year-round. Tables in the alley capture the charm of Nafplio’s old town, while heaters and coverings make outdoor dining comfortable in cooler weather. Inside, children’s drawings lend a warm, personal touch. It’s a family-run place defined by generous hospitality, efficient service, and a team that clearly knows its craft.
Kastro Karima
Just a couple of streets away from the busiest promenades of the old town, Kastro Karima is one of Nafplio’s most welcoming restaurants, largely thanks to the people behind it. The same family has been running it since 1996, when Stelios Abdel Rahim opened it together with his wife Lambrini. Today, it has passed to the second generation, siblings Angelos, Alexandros, and Mona.
Touches from the original menu remain, most notably the falafel, prepared according to their grandmother’s recipe, a dish that feels like a quiet link between past and present. Light, airy, and delicately crisp, they are served with hummus and Arabic pita bread. Although Mr. Stelios has since passed away, Lambrini remains closely involved, occasionally stepping into the kitchen. The cooking is resolutely home-style: thoughtful, well-executed, and refreshingly free of unnecessary embellishment. The moussaka is notably light, the cheese croquettes indulgent, and the chicken schnitzel crisp on the outside and tender within, served either with blue cheese sauce or tomato and parmesan.
Meat is sourced from local butchery Havtas, known for its quality, while the wine list features a well-chosen selection of regional labels, available by both bottle and glass and updated regularly. Tables spill out into a relatively quiet alley, offering a welcome sense of calm away from the crowds, while the interior is equally well cared for. Paintings line the walls, with several works by Angelos Patrinios standing out in particular.
Gastro-Noulis
For years, it was known simply as “Noulis” – a familiar name for anyone who has spent time in Nafplio, myself included – and a reliable address for well-executed meze. About a year ago, the restaurant entered a new chapter under the ownership of two couples: Alexandra Takouridi and Vasilis Katsaroupas, alongside Michalis Oikonomou and Eleni Bounou. Their aim was to retain elements of the original character while gently bringing the space into the present. The renovation reflects that approach: understated and without excess. Tables and chairs extend into the alley, while a large poster depicting old Nafplio on the opposite wall adds a nostalgic note – especially atmospheric when dining outdoors.
In the kitchen, Alexandra Takouridi draws on her experience as a chef to shape a menu that moves fluidly between meze and daily specials, spanning seafood, fish, and meat. The baked cod is generous and full of flavor, while fresh ravioli with pecorino and smoked pork offer a more contemporary touch. The beef fillet carpaccio, paired with goat cheese and peppery graviera, may feel slightly unexpected in this setting, but proves a successful addition.
If there is room for refinement, it lies in the presentation: the occasional use of bright green herb oils feels more decorative than necessary, adding little to the overall flavor. Service, overseen by the remaining partners, is attentive and well-paced, and the wine list focuses largely on regional producers. This is also a good place to sample local spirits, including Karoni tsipouro and ouzo.
Psaropoula tou Valsami
On public holidays, when Nafplio fills with visitors and the fish tavernas in town can feel overstretched, it’s well worth heading a little further afield. Locals will often point you toward Nea Kios, a seaside village just ten minutes away, where a strong fishing tradition ensures a steady supply of fresh catch. Psaropoula tou Valsami, run by the same family since 1924, sources its fish directly from local fishermen. On the menu you will find small and medium-sized fish, such as red mullet and striped red mullet, as well as larger fish depending on the day’s catch.
You choose the fish yourself, and it is weighed in front of you on an old-fashioned scale. Smaller fish are expertly fried, while larger ones are grilled over charcoal with care. Pair them with seasonal greens or a Greek salad made with ripe, sweet tomatoes and crisp cucumbers. The setting is thoughtfully maintained, with views across the Argolic Gulf. Old family photographs line the walls, offering glimpses into the region’s past and lending the space a sense of continuity. The drinks list includes a solid selection of ouzo and tsipouro, as well as bottled wines from across Greece. A spoon sweet of bitter orange is served at the end, a traditional, gently bittersweet finish to the meal.
Boreli
A short drive – around fifteen minutes – from Nafplio brings you to Vivari, where the setting alone makes the journey worthwhile. In most tavernas here, tables are set almost at the water’s edge, creating an atmosphere that is difficult to rival. Another reason is the quality of the raw ingredients. Boreli, one of the oldest seafood restaurants in the area, is consistently recommended by locals. Fresh fish takes center stage here, alongside classic seafood dishes.
Seafood pasta is a popular choice. The pasta itself is well cooked, though the sauces could benefit from a touch more depth. The grilled squid, prepared over charcoal, is a stronger highlight, simple and expertly handled. To drink, consider a local craft beer such as Mousa, an easy-drinking blonde lager that pairs particularly well with seafood.
Liotrivi
In Pyrgiotika, a small village around ten minutes from Nafplio, you will find Liotrivi – a meat-focused taverna that feels unexpectedly refined for its rural setting. The current owner, Giorgos Kostarellos, inherited the business from his family. What was once a simple village taverna has gradually evolved into a more contemporary space, without losing its traditional roots.
The fireplace at the back, lit on colder days, immediately creates a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Most of the clientele are locals from the wider area, along with people in search of good meat. When weather permits, tables are set up in the square opposite, beneath the trees. We tried the lamb chops, made with locally sourced lamb, cut thin and grilled perfectly over charcoal. The liver is also worth ordering, while the salads are generous, fresh, and carefully prepared. The tzatziki is thick and refreshing.
A regional highlight is gogkes, a local pasta served with browned butter and plenty of myzithra cheese – simple, traditional, and deeply satisfying. For those seeking something more contemporary, the menu also features Black Angus cuts such as picanha, skirt steak, and rib eye. For meat lovers looking to avoid the crowds of the town center, this remains one of the most reliable choices.
T’ Anapliotiko Bakaliko
Giorgos Rozis, originally from Arachnaio, spent many years in Athens before returning in 2014 to open his own delicatessen in Nafplio’s old town. It is a small shop with an impressively large selection of regional products, sourced from producers he knows personally. On the shelves you will find cheeses from the family dairy in Arachnaio – including graviera and myzithra – as well as local pasta such as gogkes. Alongside them are spoon sweets and jams from Mastos, made with fruit from the family’s own orchards, and wines from small local wineries such as Koroniotis and Nikolaou Estate.
There are also honeys and herbal teas from Melissa Farm in Ancient Epidaurus, rusks from Tracheia, and olive oils from across the wider region, known for their low acidity and elegant packaging. The legumes come from small producers in Prespes and Domokos, while more unusual products include stuffed zucchini flowers preserved in olive oil and the spicy Tsilelis sauces from Lesvos.
If you want something easy to eat on the go, you can pick up halva from traditional workshops – such as Bobotis near Volos or Papagiannopoulos – tahini pies from Samos, or loukoumia from Ikaria, with the bergamot-filled variety being especially interesting. More than just a shop, it feels like a curated map of regional flavors – part delicatessen, part essential stop for a well-chosen bite during a stroll through town.
Antica Gelateria di Roma
Very little has changed on the corner opposite the Church of Panagia – dedicated to the Birth of the Virgin and one of Nafplio’s oldest and most beautiful churches – where Marcello and Claudia Raffo’s gelateria has stood since 2002. Known simply as “The Italian,” it is one of the town’s most beloved stops, and if you have visited even once, chances are you still remember the hazelnut gelato.
In addition to that, it is worth turning to the more classic Italian flavors, such as zuppa inglese – made with custard, sponge cake, and Alchermes liqueur – or cassata siciliana. The sorbets in the neighboring display case are also worth exploring. Try the chocolate with chili: it starts gently, before unfolding into a subtle, sweet heat.
On the counter, you will also find semifreddo desserts including tiramisu, cassata, slices of panettone filled with gelato, and panna cotta. If you are after something smaller, order a granita al caffè con panna – espresso granita with freshly whipped cream – paired with a cantuccini biscuit.
Koustenis Ice Cream
The Koustenis family makes ice cream with a strong emphasis on ingredients and careful execution. They mainly use Greek products – such as hazelnut paste from a producers’ cooperative in Pieria and fresh fruit – something that comes through clearly in the final flavors.
Standouts include mastic with pieces of syrup-soaked kataifi pastry, walnut with cinnamon, strawberry cheesecake, fig, and a reliably excellent nocciola. It is also worth trying their parfaits, made with cream, meringue, and pastry cream, which give them a richer, fuller texture.
Vellinis Wine Cellar
Grigoris Vellinis runs the family wine cellar with a youthful energy and a clear passion for Greek wine. Constantly seeking out new producers and labels, he balances established wineries with smaller, lesser-known estates. Located near the old town’s cannons, the space works both as a wine shop and a place to linger. From around 380 labels and 90 grape varieties, you can choose a bottle to enjoy on-site or opt for a guided tasting of up to four wines tailored to your preferences.
Tastings are kept deliberately simple, accompanied by light snacks, making it an easy, unhurried stop between meals. Alternatively, you can take a bottle and stroll toward the sea – Nafplio offers plenty of spots to enjoy a glass with a view. Before leaving, take a moment to notice the grafted lemon and bitter orange trees outside the shop: the sight of both fruits on the same tree is a charming detail.
Originally published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.