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At 4.30 a.m., while Mykonos is still buzzing with nightlife, Thodoris Koukas is already at work \u2013 milking, feeding the animals and making cheese. He personally oversees every stage of production and often handles deliveries himself.<\/p>\n
\u201cHaving full control is crucial,\u201d he says. \u201cOur cheeses are extremely perishable, so we need to be sure they reach the consumer\u2019s plate in perfect condition. That takes time and dedication.\u201d<\/p>\n
The Koukas family has turned kopanisti, Mykonos\u2019 famous spicy cheese, into a fine art. For three generations, they have crafted this cornerstone of the island\u2019s cheesemaking tradition. Thodoris\u2019 grandfather, a mailman by trade, would deliver homemade kopanisti along with letters on his trips to Athens.<\/p>\n
The idea for the family\u2019s modern dairy in Ano Mera began in 1985 when Thodoris\u2019 father, Markos Koukas, started a cattle farm in Maou. Today, it\u2019s one of the largest cattle farms in the Cyclades, home to 380 well-fed cows that produce around 1,700 tons of milk each year.<\/p>\n
\u201cWe don\u2019t use processed feed,\u201d Thodoris says. \u201cOur cows eat natural, organic food and graze in the fields whenever possible.\u201d A recently installed state-of-the-art monitoring system provides round-the-clock surveillance, tracking the cows\u2019 health and diet. It\u2019s connected to a modern milking parlor that measures milk output, ensuring the animals are healthy and the milk is of the highest quality.<\/p>\n
\u201cI\u2019ve loved this work since I was a child,\u201d says Thodoris. \u201cI remember how long it took for the kopanisti to ripen and we couldn\u2019t wait for it to be ready. When we took the animals to graze on Delos, we\u2019d spread the kopanisti on a platter with melted tomato, olive oil, oregano and salt, and later enjoy it with grapes and watermelon.\u201d<\/p>\n
Thodoris has taken the production of myzithra \u2013 the old Mykonian name for kopanisti \u2013 seriously from a young age. A graduate of the Dairy School of Ioannina, he began cheesemaking before turning 20. Today, he produces the same fiery cheese his grandfathers made, blending his scientific knowledge with traditional Mykonian methods. He also makes tyrovolia, a traditional Mykonian cheese, and xinotyri \u2013 literally sour cheese, but which tastes much better than it sounds! \u2013 all from their own fresh milk.<\/p>\n
\u201cThis work is hard, but fortunately, the island supports us, even though our products are much more expensive than industrial ones. About 80% of local restaurants consume around 40% of our production,\u201d he explains.<\/p>\n
Over time, they\u2019ve expanded their offerings to include strained tsantilas yogurt, soft cottage cheese and a finely aged graviera that impressed Kathimerini\u2019s Gastronomos judges at a blind tasting with its bold, sharp flavor and rich, buttery taste.<\/p>\n
\u201cHere on Mykonos, we could easily pursue something simpler with greater financial rewards. Instead of raising cows, we could focus on tourism,\u201d he says. \u201cBut I hope my daughters will love this work, because my biggest worry is what will happen to the dairy when I\u2019m older.\u201d<\/p>\n
Nothing draws him away from his cheeses, and through his work, he reveals a different side of Mykonos \u2013 one rooted in tradition, the meltemi winds and authentic flavors.<\/p>\n
Their products are available on Mykonos and in select locations in Athens, including AB Vassilopoulos, Thanopoulos, large Sklavenitis stores, Miran, Koukas Ioannis, The Butcher Shop, H Sesoula tis Geitonias, Paradosi and others.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n