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Mountain village hikes from Vamvakou, Steni and Megalo Chorio lead walkers through fir forests and gorges as autumn turns to winter.<\/strong><\/p>\n As the weather cools, ridgelines and forests return to the spotlight across Greece. This is the season to walk them, and three villages make ideal bases.<\/p>\n Each pairs local tradition and winter warmth with two trails. So a weekend of mountain village hikes can mix forest paths with long taverna lunches.<\/p>\n In Laconia, Vamvakou clings to the slopes of Parnon<\/a>. On Evia, Steni lies beneath Mount Dirfys, while Megalo Chorio stands near Karpenisi.<\/p>\n Read more: Eastern Taygetos: Waterfalls, Monasteries and Stone Villages<\/p>\n These mountain village hikes range from a gentle hour\u2019s walk to a cave monastery to a climb to a 1,743-metre summit. Several also reach refuges where walkers can spend the night.<\/p>\n Perched at 900 metres, Vamvakou is still one of the least-known villages in Laconia. When villagers first built it in the 15th century, they called it Paliochora.<\/p>\n A few years ago, it stood one step from total abandonment. Then young people with roots there, helped by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation<\/a>, brought it back to life. Vamvakou is also the Niarchos family\u2019s place of origin.<\/p>\n Now it draws travellers seeking an alternative holiday. Instead of bars on every lane, there is one taverna and a few places to stay, so days revolve around mountain village hikes.<\/p>\n The best known of Vamvakou\u2019s mountain village hikes reaches the cave monastery of Agia Kyriaki in about an hour. It also winds through fir and chestnut forest beside running water, with a panoramic view from Loggos.<\/p>\n Overall, the circular route covers about 9.5 kilometres, with yellow and red waymarks. The abandoned monastery sits at 950 metres, and the return takes about four kilometres.<\/p>\n For more adventure, a second trail continues from Agia Kyriaki to the Parnon refuge at Arnomousga, at 1,420 metres. After the monastery the path grows harder.<\/p>\n At the refuge, hikers can book early to stay overnight, camp in the clearing or return to Vamvakou. The route also works in reverse.<\/p>\n On Evia, Steni ranks among the island\u2019s most beautiful villages. Because it is green and full of running water, it suits a two-day stay at 450 metres on Mount Dirfys<\/a>.<\/p>\n Visitors come for its tavernas, honey and herbs. Its finest corners are the paved square, where tables sit beneath plane trees, and the leafy Steniotiko stream.<\/p>\n Steni is also a base for short and long mountain village hikes. Trail S1 begins behind the sports ground and climbs to the Rachi refuge at 1,123 metres, owned by the Hellenic Alpine Club of Chalkida<\/a>.<\/p>\n Initially, the path crosses pine forest with mastic, strawberry trees, heather and kermes oak. A dirt road follows, then thick fir forest, for about two and a half hours.<\/p>\n Stronger walkers can push on to the 1,743-metre summit in roughly 90 more minutes. On the way down, trail S2 passes through chestnut and plane forest.<\/p>\n Tougher still among Steni\u2019s mountain village hikes is trail A1 through the Agali Gorge. It starts at Agios Athanasios, about 13 kilometres west of Steni, and runs for roughly six kilometres.<\/p>\n Marks on trees and rocks, along with signposts, keep it easy to follow. At first the trail drops into the gorge, then it climbs the streambed over small bridges.<\/p>\n In particular, thyme, oregano and rosemary grow beneath centuries-old plane trees, maples and oaks. Further in, the terrain turns wilder, with tall vertical rock faces.<\/p>\n Following the red marks, walkers reach the Kratia spring at 730 metres, the usual end point. Alternatively, hikers can continue east to the refuge, stay the night and walk down to Steni the next day.<\/p>\nThree bases for mountain village hikes<\/em><\/h3>\n
Vamvakou, revived on Parnon\u2019s slopes<\/em><\/h3>\n
Two trails to Agia Kyriaki and Arnomousga<\/em><\/h3>\n
Steni beneath Mount Dirfys<\/em><\/h3>\n
Through the Agali Gorge to Kratia<\/em><\/h3>\n
Kaliakouda above Megalo Chorio<\/em><\/h3>\n