At 4.30 a.m., while Mykonos is still buzzing with nightlife, Thodoris Koukas is already at work – milking, feeding the animals and making cheese. He personally oversees every stage of production and often handles deliveries himself.
“Having full control is crucial,” he says. “Our cheeses are extremely perishable, so we need to be sure they reach the consumer’s plate in perfect condition. That takes time and dedication.”
The Koukas family has turned kopanisti, Mykonos’ famous spicy cheese, into a fine art. For three generations, they have crafted this cornerstone of the island’s cheesemaking tradition. Thodoris’ grandfather, a mailman by trade, would deliver homemade kopanisti along with letters on his trips to Athens.
The idea for the family’s modern dairy in Ano Mera began in 1985 when Thodoris’ father, Markos Koukas, started a cattle farm in Maou. Today, it’s one of the largest cattle farms in the Cyclades, home to 380 well-fed cows that produce around 1,700 tons of milk each year.
“We don’t use processed feed,” Thodoris says. “Our cows eat natural, organic food and graze in the fields whenever possible.” A recently installed state-of-the-art monitoring system provides round-the-clock surveillance, tracking the cows’ health and diet. It’s connected to a modern milking parlor that measures milk output, ensuring the animals are healthy and the milk is of the highest quality.
“I’ve loved this work since I was a child,” says Thodoris. “I remember how long it took for the kopanisti to ripen and we couldn’t wait for it to be ready. When we took the animals to graze on Delos, we’d spread the kopanisti on a platter with melted tomato, olive oil, oregano and salt, and later enjoy it with grapes and watermelon.”
Thodoris has taken the production of myzithra – the old Mykonian name for kopanisti – seriously from a young age. A graduate of the Dairy School of Ioannina, he began cheesemaking before turning 20. Today, he produces the same fiery cheese his grandfathers made, blending his scientific knowledge with traditional Mykonian methods. He also makes tyrovolia, a traditional Mykonian cheese, and xinotyri – literally sour cheese, but which tastes much better than it sounds! – all from their own fresh milk.
“This work is hard, but fortunately, the island supports us, even though our products are much more expensive than industrial ones. About 80% of local restaurants consume around 40% of our production,” he explains.
Over time, they’ve expanded their offerings to include strained tsantilas yogurt, soft cottage cheese and a finely aged graviera that impressed Kathimerini’s Gastronomos judges at a blind tasting with its bold, sharp flavor and rich, buttery taste.
“Here on Mykonos, we could easily pursue something simpler with greater financial rewards. Instead of raising cows, we could focus on tourism,” he says. “But I hope my daughters will love this work, because my biggest worry is what will happen to the dairy when I’m older.”
Nothing draws him away from his cheeses, and through his work, he reveals a different side of Mykonos – one rooted in tradition, the meltemi winds and authentic flavors.
Their products are available on Mykonos and in select locations in Athens, including AB Vassilopoulos, Thanopoulos, large Sklavenitis stores, Miran, Koukas Ioannis, The Butcher Shop, H Sesoula tis Geitonias, Paradosi and others.