Mountain village hikes from Vamvakou, Steni and Megalo Chorio lead walkers through fir forests and gorges as autumn turns to winter.
As the weather cools, ridgelines and forests return to the spotlight across Greece. This is the season to walk them, and three villages make ideal bases.
Each pairs local tradition and winter warmth with two trails. So a weekend of mountain village hikes can mix forest paths with long taverna lunches.
Three bases for mountain village hikes
In Laconia, Vamvakou clings to the slopes of Parnon. On Evia, Steni lies beneath Mount Dirfys, while Megalo Chorio stands near Karpenisi.
Read more: Eastern Taygetos: Waterfalls, Monasteries and Stone Villages
These mountain village hikes range from a gentle hour’s walk to a cave monastery to a climb to a 1,743-metre summit. Several also reach refuges where walkers can spend the night.
Vamvakou, revived on Parnon’s slopes
Perched at 900 metres, Vamvakou is still one of the least-known villages in Laconia. When villagers first built it in the 15th century, they called it Paliochora.
A few years ago, it stood one step from total abandonment. Then young people with roots there, helped by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, brought it back to life. Vamvakou is also the Niarchos family’s place of origin.
Now it draws travellers seeking an alternative holiday. Instead of bars on every lane, there is one taverna and a few places to stay, so days revolve around mountain village hikes.
Two trails to Agia Kyriaki and Arnomousga
The best known of Vamvakou’s mountain village hikes reaches the cave monastery of Agia Kyriaki in about an hour. It also winds through fir and chestnut forest beside running water, with a panoramic view from Loggos.
Overall, the circular route covers about 9.5 kilometres, with yellow and red waymarks. The abandoned monastery sits at 950 metres, and the return takes about four kilometres.
For more adventure, a second trail continues from Agia Kyriaki to the Parnon refuge at Arnomousga, at 1,420 metres. After the monastery the path grows harder.
At the refuge, hikers can book early to stay overnight, camp in the clearing or return to Vamvakou. The route also works in reverse.
Steni beneath Mount Dirfys
On Evia, Steni ranks among the island’s most beautiful villages. Because it is green and full of running water, it suits a two-day stay at 450 metres on Mount Dirfys.
Visitors come for its tavernas, honey and herbs. Its finest corners are the paved square, where tables sit beneath plane trees, and the leafy Steniotiko stream.
Steni is also a base for short and long mountain village hikes. Trail S1 begins behind the sports ground and climbs to the Rachi refuge at 1,123 metres, owned by the Hellenic Alpine Club of Chalkida.
Initially, the path crosses pine forest with mastic, strawberry trees, heather and kermes oak. A dirt road follows, then thick fir forest, for about two and a half hours.
Stronger walkers can push on to the 1,743-metre summit in roughly 90 more minutes. On the way down, trail S2 passes through chestnut and plane forest.
Through the Agali Gorge to Kratia
Tougher still among Steni’s mountain village hikes is trail A1 through the Agali Gorge. It starts at Agios Athanasios, about 13 kilometres west of Steni, and runs for roughly six kilometres.
Marks on trees and rocks, along with signposts, keep it easy to follow. At first the trail drops into the gorge, then it climbs the streambed over small bridges.
In particular, thyme, oregano and rosemary grow beneath centuries-old plane trees, maples and oaks. Further in, the terrain turns wilder, with tall vertical rock faces.
Following the red marks, walkers reach the Kratia spring at 730 metres, the usual end point. Alternatively, hikers can continue east to the refuge, stay the night and walk down to Steni the next day.
Kaliakouda above Megalo Chorio
Close to Karpenisi, Megalo Chorio stands at the foot of Kaliakouda among stone lanes and traditional houses. Its Folklore Museum, open at weekends, shows village life in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Visitors should also try its famous galaktoboureko. Short drives lead to Mikro Chorio, Voutyro, Gavros, Koryschades and the Proussos Monastery, whose history begins in 829.
Among Megalo Chorio’s mountain village hikes, the climb to the Kaliakouda refuge at 1,400 metres stands out. The waymarked trail starts near the stone clock tower and enters fir forest.
At about five kilometres, it is also fairly easy. After four kilometres, it passes the Dormition of the Theotokos chapel and the Kaliakouda Monument to the battle of 1823.
From the refuge, walkers can return or tackle 2.8 harder kilometres to the summit. A second route from Megalo Chorio climbs past the monument to Klafsi, then loops back near the Karpenisiotis river.
With views of the Evrytanian mountains, it rounds off six mountain village hikes that bring walkers close to local tradition.
Source: travel.gr
